Off the Beaten Path: Crossing Lake Ilopango
In the dark of the night, el norte began to shake the trees and rattle the windows. We set out in the early morning, hoping that the coming of the north wind would not prevent us from navigating the waters of Lake Ilopango. A Salvadoran friend, whom we have known since she was a little girl, rode along with us as we traveled the highway east of the city. We descended toward the lake and she pointed out the road to our left, "for the tourists," she said, "everything is more expensive and you have to pay to access the lake." We took the low road, the one to the right which she called "the way of the dry palms." Her mom and dad and little sister would come here on weekends to have cook-outs and swim with family and friends. As we approached the lake shore we could see some new development. The local municipality built a long concrete patio and rents spaces to small establishments which sell food and beverages. "Now it has gotten expensive over